So we've been in France now for just over 6 weeks. We're not sure how exciting or interesting our adventures and experiences will be to others, but in writing a blog it will certainly help us to remember (and enjoy again)  the places we've been to and the people we've met.

We've sailed together for over 20 years and have always enjoyed arriving somewhere by boat because it gives you a unique view of the town and countryside. Usually it means you have avoided the industrial and commercial environs and the busy roads and motorways. Instead you arrive in a picturesque harbour, take walks along the coast and venture inland (always uphill) with the shopping trolley to get supplies. So far, we've found that travelling on the inland waterways has exactly the same advantages. 

Travelling by boat also means you meet with the most diverse, generous and humorous people imaginable. They are ready to talk, share experiences and give advice - and above all, to laugh.

Six weeks ago Slo-Motion was lifted onto a low loader at Evesham Marina (in pouring rain which didn't apparently stop until last week) and made the journey by road to Evans Marine in Migennes on the River Yonne in Northern Burgundy. 

Loading in the rain

It didn't start well.  The torrential rain at Evesham, the discovery of a colony of freshwater mussels on Slo-Motion's bottom, the rain all the way to Portsmouth, the "petit problem" with the cooker at our our overnight stop in France.

The boatyard in France said we should blast off the mussels which also blasted off one layer of our very expensive epoxy paint. The subsequent move into the boatyard for repainting managed to crack our granite worktop!

However, three days later we were relaunched into the river. We had epoxied the worktop and the hull, and with the invaluable help of our friends Neil and Angela who had driven us to France, unpacked all the boxes and re-stowed everything in record time. We bought French gas bottles and moved up into Migennes basin to take on fuel and water and Neil fitted the new horns we'd bought in Evesham. Our original horn wouldn't have startled a fly.

Neil fitting new horns

After a quick 3 day shakedown cruise up the Canal de Bourgogne we said goodbye to Neil and Angela and made our way to Auxerre - our main intention being to sort out a phone and data package there. 

We've had trouble understanding the different contracts in English so translating the French options was certainly a challenge. Meanwhile the Tourist Office alongside the quay in Auxerre provided us with good free wi-fi although we could have done with some more comfortable chairs (obviously designed to discourage the likes of us taking up residence there for too long).

Being moored just below the cathedral in Auxerre and able to wander at will into the medieval town was fabulous and a wonderful start to our cruising in France. 

Auxerre

On the way back to Migennes we had two rope hang ups in the locks (can highly recommend the Gerber rescue knives which dealt with the problem brilliantly). These were caused primarily through the design of the t-stud on the bow of Slo-Motion. This tapers at the top and once a turn is taken around it and put under tension, the rope jams solid under the 't' so cannot be eased as the water level falls in the lock. Simon Evans provided the solution with a pair of double bitts he'd removed from a fishing boat - perfect, apart from being bright turquoise. 

Not sure about the colour Pete

Thus equipped with practical bitts (now black) we set off down the River Yonne heading for Paris. A great trip particularly on the upper reaches of the Yonne with lovely towns  such as Joigny, Villeneuve and Sens providing secure moorings (often with free water and electric), good shopping and interesting sights to discover. 

Vineyards at Joigny

Further downstream things became a little less placid. There was more commercial traffic and many of the locks had sloping sides which made life rather more difficult locking down. 

We were directed to share a lock with a pair of loaded peniches and  were then told by the lock keeper to be very careful as the walls were broken and it was very dangerous. Which proved to be the case. The sloping walls weren't smooth but had large masonry blocks protruding and with a wind blowing us onto the wall it was impossible to push off. Result - Slo-Motion started to list to port at a frightening rate. We were well and truly hung on the lock wall. 

We and the commercial crew yelled at the lock-keeper extremely loudly and he stopped the lock emptying and began to refill so we could float off.  Lesson learnt - we did the next sloping locks secured alongside the commercial - "à couple". 

À couple

Still in a state of shock we arrived at Montereau at the confluence of the rivers Yonne and Seine, and were delighted to find a 'halte' with plenty of room with pontoons and very large cleats to tie up to. We should have guessed there would be more to come, it was Friday 13th. The next day when we returned from a shopping expedition into town (mainly to replenish our wine stocks to aid our recovery from the shock of nearly capsizing) we found a barrier across the path to our pontoon with a large sign with a skull and cross bones on it. Access was forbidden because of explosives.

How was I supposed to know?

 It was of course July 14th, National Day. So first we had nearly sunk, now we were in danger of catching fire. We prudently moved beyond the bridge and onto the River Seine and tied up to a grassy bank - as far from the bridge as possible. But we did have a fantastic view of the firework display that evening.

So it is hardly surprising that when we discovered Moret-sur-Loing, a picturesque, quiet halte just off the Seine (only about 10k from Montereau), we decided it was just the place for some R & R.

Alfred Sisley painted this

 It's worked, we've been here for two weeks and could easily stay longer. We've enjoyed our stay here even more because we have met up with our friends Keith and Glen who we have not seen for 12 years. A great reunion and hopefully to be repeated when they do their return trip from the UK back to Spain.

Rural mooring

 And this was closely followed by a wonderful surprise visit from Nick and Val, who phoned on Saturday morning and said they would be with us that evening - they had just booked the ferry - brilliant! We enjoyed three great nights together including a pontoon barbecue with our Kiwi neighbours Richard and Odette, who were en-route to the Med in their Westerly Centaur. 

Tomorrow, we continue towards Paris.