From CO2 to Classic Cars

Well, what a week.

We left Pont Royal last Tuesday and travelled in company with a German cruiser. Locking down is so much kinder than going up, but with another boat in the lock it did mean being more aware and having to use a rope to keep our position, so Glenny was back on the roof.

Full Speed

The other thing about sharing locks is that you always feel some pressure to be quick in case you delay the other boat, particularly a motor cruiser, which can travel faster than us and can accelerate and stop in much shorter distances than our 25 tons. And these chaps were in a hurry! After 32 locks we were quite ready to stop at the first decent mooring!

We spent the night moored to a grassy bank at Pouillenay, where there was some serious fishing going on, but not much else. 

On Wednesday morning the omens were not good. Having agreed a 9am start with the Germans and the eclusier, we woke early to hear a row between rival fishermen, arguing over territory, each staking claim with an array of rods on stands with complex electronic alarms fitted. Glen went for a walk and got rounded up by a very large, boisterous and noisy dog, whose owner, when he eventually caught up with the dog, explained that he was " un chien de chasse" and using the universal sign language that means " completely lunatic" - not very reassuring when you're being howled at by a big dog!

Our Teutonic neighbours were away early for the rendezvous at the first lock, and we dutifully kept pace. The day took shape much as the previous one; the cruiser ploughing on ahead, arriving at the lock before the eclusier and then having to hold station whilst the lock was filled ready for them to enter, which of course gave us time to catch up and slide in quietly behind them. The cruiser skipper did, bless him, always get off and walk back to take Glen's rope (we think he had seen G's attempt at lassoing the bollards and thought he could speed things up).

All went well for the first 8 locks, then in lock No 53 we found ourselves surrounded by bats! A wonderful aerobatic display, but a little unsettling to have dozens flying very very close to you when you are descending into a narrow, damp chamber. 

Waiting....

Before the next lock, one of our team of eclusiers scootered back to us to say that the lock was broken and we would have to wait for the engineers to arrive. Both boats pulled into the bank and our travelling companions hurried down to the lock to supervise repairs. We were soon on our way and a couple of locks further, tied up for lunch at a small marina.

The locks close on this canal between 12 and 1 for lunch (of course), and this enforced break does ensure that we do get a calming and restful lunchtime. And, boy, did we need it!

Four locks after lunch, I switched the cameras to engine room and saw SMOKE!  Called Glen down from the roof and asked for the big CO2 extinguisher. We pulled into the bank, carefully lifted the hatch board and let rip with a good squirt of gas. We could see the main alternator glowing incandescently and the beginnings of a flame starting to develop. More CO2.

A few minutes later, we were left with masses of smoke and a strong smell of burning plastic.

Our Alternator

The eclusier came back to see why we had stopped, told him we had a fire…"poof" (French shrug), then he rode away. 

We, traumatised, tried to think what to do. Could we run the engine? How could we get help?
We were of course, in the middle of nowhere.

Calm down, think it through, make some 'phone calls. We got some great advice from Engines Plus in Gloucestershire, who said that if we disconnected every wire from the alternator, we could run the engine safely. 

So we did and cautiously made our way to Montbard, a sizeable town with pontoons, water and electric. 

Locking into Montbard.

This cheered Pete up!

We decided to stay put for a few days and sort ourselves out...

The next day we made many calls, to our insurers, mechanics in the UK and to Simon Evans at Migennes, where we are planning to leave the boat whilst we return home for Paddy's wedding. Between all of them, they helped us to reach a decision as to how to proceed. 
We could run the engine safely, but could not charge the domestic batteries by motoring. So. if we aim to have electric every night, or use our generator, we can keep going. At Migennes, Simon will sort out a replacement alternator while we are away. So we have a plan.

We'd left our car at Pouilley, so called Grant and Susan on 'Chocolat', who kindly agreed to drive to us and take us back to pick up the car. When they arrived they also offered to tow us back to Saint-Jean-de Losne if we would like. What a fabulous, selfless offer! thank you so much.
Helen and Steve also phoned and offered us accommodation on Jubilant if we needed to vacate Slo-Motion for repairs - again, what a generous thought - thank you.

We spent three days at Montbard, cleaning up the engine room, checking all our engine wiring for signs of collateral damage and making sure that our batteries were taking and holding charge.

Ravières

On Saturday we moved on to Ravières, a great mooring, long stone quay, electric and water, all free! Stayed Sunday and visited a Vide-Grenier, and a small display of classic cars, then washed off the boat, the first real opportunity since we left Saint Jean.

Tonight we are moored at Ancy-le-Franc and will most likely stay tomorrow, to visit the Château and shop at the best butchers in the region (according to the skipper of the hotel boat moored in front of us).