From CO2 to Classic Cars

Well, what a week.

We left Pont Royal last Tuesday and travelled in company with a German cruiser. Locking down is so much kinder than going up, but with another boat in the lock it did mean being more aware and having to use a rope to keep our position, so Glenny was back on the roof.

Full Speed

The other thing about sharing locks is that you always feel some pressure to be quick in case you delay the other boat, particularly a motor cruiser, which can travel faster than us and can accelerate and stop in much shorter distances than our 25 tons. And these chaps were in a hurry! After 32 locks we were quite ready to stop at the first decent mooring!

We spent the night moored to a grassy bank at Pouillenay, where there was some serious fishing going on, but not much else. 

On Wednesday morning the omens were not good. Having agreed a 9am start with the Germans and the eclusier, we woke early to hear a row between rival fishermen, arguing over territory, each staking claim with an array of rods on stands with complex electronic alarms fitted. Glen went for a walk and got rounded up by a very large, boisterous and noisy dog, whose owner, when he eventually caught up with the dog, explained that he was " un chien de chasse" and using the universal sign language that means " completely lunatic" - not very reassuring when you're being howled at by a big dog!

Our Teutonic neighbours were away early for the rendezvous at the first lock, and we dutifully kept pace. The day took shape much as the previous one; the cruiser ploughing on ahead, arriving at the lock before the eclusier and then having to hold station whilst the lock was filled ready for them to enter, which of course gave us time to catch up and slide in quietly behind them. The cruiser skipper did, bless him, always get off and walk back to take Glen's rope (we think he had seen G's attempt at lassoing the bollards and thought he could speed things up).

All went well for the first 8 locks, then in lock No 53 we found ourselves surrounded by bats! A wonderful aerobatic display, but a little unsettling to have dozens flying very very close to you when you are descending into a narrow, damp chamber. 

Waiting....

Before the next lock, one of our team of eclusiers scootered back to us to say that the lock was broken and we would have to wait for the engineers to arrive. Both boats pulled into the bank and our travelling companions hurried down to the lock to supervise repairs. We were soon on our way and a couple of locks further, tied up for lunch at a small marina.

The locks close on this canal between 12 and 1 for lunch (of course), and this enforced break does ensure that we do get a calming and restful lunchtime. And, boy, did we need it!

Four locks after lunch, I switched the cameras to engine room and saw SMOKE!  Called Glen down from the roof and asked for the big CO2 extinguisher. We pulled into the bank, carefully lifted the hatch board and let rip with a good squirt of gas. We could see the main alternator glowing incandescently and the beginnings of a flame starting to develop. More CO2.

A few minutes later, we were left with masses of smoke and a strong smell of burning plastic.

Our Alternator

The eclusier came back to see why we had stopped, told him we had a fire…"poof" (French shrug), then he rode away. 

We, traumatised, tried to think what to do. Could we run the engine? How could we get help?
We were of course, in the middle of nowhere.

Calm down, think it through, make some 'phone calls. We got some great advice from Engines Plus in Gloucestershire, who said that if we disconnected every wire from the alternator, we could run the engine safely. 

So we did and cautiously made our way to Montbard, a sizeable town with pontoons, water and electric. 

Locking into Montbard.

This cheered Pete up!

We decided to stay put for a few days and sort ourselves out...

The next day we made many calls, to our insurers, mechanics in the UK and to Simon Evans at Migennes, where we are planning to leave the boat whilst we return home for Paddy's wedding. Between all of them, they helped us to reach a decision as to how to proceed. 
We could run the engine safely, but could not charge the domestic batteries by motoring. So. if we aim to have electric every night, or use our generator, we can keep going. At Migennes, Simon will sort out a replacement alternator while we are away. So we have a plan.

We'd left our car at Pouilley, so called Grant and Susan on 'Chocolat', who kindly agreed to drive to us and take us back to pick up the car. When they arrived they also offered to tow us back to Saint-Jean-de Losne if we would like. What a fabulous, selfless offer! thank you so much.
Helen and Steve also phoned and offered us accommodation on Jubilant if we needed to vacate Slo-Motion for repairs - again, what a generous thought - thank you.

We spent three days at Montbard, cleaning up the engine room, checking all our engine wiring for signs of collateral damage and making sure that our batteries were taking and holding charge.

Ravières

On Saturday we moved on to Ravières, a great mooring, long stone quay, electric and water, all free! Stayed Sunday and visited a Vide-Grenier, and a small display of classic cars, then washed off the boat, the first real opportunity since we left Saint Jean.

Tonight we are moored at Ancy-le-Franc and will most likely stay tomorrow, to visit the Château and shop at the best butchers in the region (according to the skipper of the hotel boat moored in front of us).

The Sun has been found -

well for a few days...

PONT ROYAL

What a lovely place and what a lovely day. 

Set off at 9am this morning and made our way through many locks but in the sunshine! Arrived here at 2.30 - what a gem. Delightful chambre d'hôte and water and electric. 

Not much else but quite delightful. 

A walk into the nearby village of Saucy revealed a 'serious' log cabin. 

And to finish - the first BBQ of the cruise.

The Sun is Lost

FRIDAY 31 MAY

Pouilly en Auxois

" The sun is lost!"

I've just been to pay for a further three nights here at Pouilly-en-Auxois and when I asked the lovely girl in the Port Office, what has happened to the sun, she replied "it is lost".

Funky moped and the Harley Davidson Panniers!

We stayed a day at Fleury. After realising that there were no shops for some days ahead, we cycled back to Velars and stocked up with provisions to see us through - we wouldn't want to become skellingtons!

This part of the canal is known as Burgundian Switzerland

we can understand why - even in the rain, it is lovely

After a day of grey skies and drizzle, we moored at Ecluse 34 on the following evening. It's a pretty spot with an outside eating area for the use of boaters and water and electric available, so a very tempting stopping place. It was cold, windy and wet, so although we were pleased to recharge our batteries and top up our water tank, we did not have the opportunity to enjoy the rather delightful facilities.

many pretty cottages alongside this canal

Chateauneuf from the canal

our mooring ropes were an ideal resting place for the swallows

After stopping briefly at Pont d'Ouche, Vandenesse and Escommes, without any real, lasting change in the weather, we spent our first sunny morning in ages, transiting a 3.5 k tunnel.

Tea rooms in Vandenesse

Coot chicks on an island at Escommes - but they wouldn't stay there!

approach to the tunnel

We arrived at the other side in bright sunshine to find people in shorts, doing sunny day things, washing clothes and boats, cycling to the shops, talking in groups on the quayside, it was like arriving in another world. And it was great to see Grant and Sue off Chocolat and Pete (and Jack) off Rook - felt a bit like a St. JdeL reunion.

That afternoon, we enjoyed an impromptu boules match with the other crews, which was an extremely pleasant way to while away the first sunny afternoon for a long time. 

(thanks for the photo Teresa)

It didn't last! The days since Monday have been a mix of dry mornings and wet afternoons. Have managed to wash and dry most of our laundry, explore the local shops and wash off one side of the boat, but it is still cool and grey. 

dusk - Pouilly en Auxois

We returned to Saint-Jean de Losne yesterday to pick up our car and enjoyed catching up with Paul and Mal on Lazy Heron and were treated to lunch with Helen and Steve from The Jubilant. We can only hope that in June the sun will be found again...

Room with a view

Yet More Rain

Cool éclusier

We know we're British and we really should know how to deal with rain - but it's cold as well! The forecast for the next week is more of the same so we've decided to do short trips and moor up at any little village that takes our fancy. We're currently in Fleurie sur Ouche and hopefully the rain will stop long enough for us to explore this (we think) picturesque village.

We were cheered today but the arrival of our 'cool' éclusier, who accompanied us for 3 locks. He insisted on wearing his wrap-around shades even though it was grey and lashing it down and his moped was equipped with a set of Harley Davidson leather panniers, complete with fringes. He disappeared over the horizon before we thought to take a picture!

The slower pace does mean the patchwork is progressing... and by the way, the pimping of the fridges did get completed.

Finally - we're off!

The idea was to leave the Gare d'Eau and start the season's cruising at the end of April. But the best laid plans and all that…. A few days very heavy rain combined with snow melt from the mountains caused the worst floods for 30 years. The river Ouche overflowed its banks and caused widespread flooding - in turn debris was washed into the locks and towpaths damaged and in some cases washed away. 

So the Bourgogne Canal has been closed (together with other canals) and the rivers flowing too fast for navigation. All very reminiscent of Upton and the River Severn…  And of course, boats have been stuck at various moorings along the canal system. So we left it a few days after the canals re-opened for things to settle a bit before venturing onto the Canal.

We enjoyed a surprise visit from Heinz and Ingalill. They were returning south after visiting Sweden. It was so lovely to see them both and to enjoy lunch together.

During April we went along to the Lions Wine and Produce Fair at the local Community Centre, which was very well attended and enjoyed tasting local food and wine. A really good turn out and lots of fun.

Followed by a brilliant birthday celebration for Pauline. 

Then the River Rats BBQ - bright sunshine, good food (including the 46 beef burgers Pete made) and a wonderful festive spirit. 

That was when everybody was sure Summer had arrived - we all dug into the depths of our cupboards to bring out the summer clothes - only to dig out the winter wear again a week or so later.  

Not sure about the hat Steve...

But the combination of warm weather and heavy rain that followed resulted in Spring arriving almost overnight. Beautiful and lush. 

The birdlife is wonderful around the Gare d'Eau and thanks to Caroline and Matthew and the Monday morning walks we now recognise the nightingales singing. We were also privileged to see a long eared owl residing for the evening in one of the trees in their garden. 

April was also the month for Vide Greniers - car boot sales. They're great fun and often have hot food for sale, so you can combine mooching around with lunch. 

Our late departure from the marina meant we and Pauline and Richard were still around to celebrate Helen's birthday  - a fishy affair, garlic prawns followed by moules frites and Eton Mess to really finish us off.  A great evening. 

Helen and Steve are now offering B&B on the Jubilant - it's really luxurious and a good base from which to explore the Burgundy and Jura regions - and they are great hosts. We were really pleased to be able to help them create a new brochure for the venture. 

So finally left on Monday 13th but only to lie alongside Jubilant for a 'send off' meal together.  Then on Tuesday in the sunshine, numerous locks (ah yes, we now remember how to do that) and overnight mooring at Bretenière by Lock 65. 

A great spot close to fuel and supermarket. Grant and Susan on Chocolat had emailed us details of their trip up the Bourgogne which is really useful - lots of information on good places to moor, depths and availability of water.

Ready for the next lock

Then on Wednesday - raining - a relaxing trip to Dijon. Slight delay getting into the basin as the novice éclusier got his paddles and gates in a twist and had to go and seek instructions. Sure he'll get the hang of it eventually. Moored alongside the public quay opposite the island with some very noisy neighbours. 

Now due for an extended period of rain so Dijon town calls.

Saturday 18 May

Unusually for us, we're in the right place at the right time. Our track record is for us to arrive just after a concert, exhibition or fun event has taken place.  But today we got it right. It stopped raining and Dijon was celebrating the pedestrianisation of one of its main streets. It was a bit of a carnival really - and great fun.

Mad Max!

Don't Ask!

Easter 2013

Well, it's almost Easter and no, we haven't sunk or emigrated - apologies for belated blog...

Even though we've been in Winter mode and not doing that much, the time since Christmas has simply flown by.

Our New Year's Eve party aboard The Jubilant was a great success, good curries, good wine and great company - thanks Helen and Steve.

The weather has been pretty mixed, not great, but not as bad as we were expecting. We've had some grey days and some rain, but also some sunshine and not the very severe frosts we had been told about. There has been some snow but not enough to cause any problems, but it looked pretty for a while. Looks like we got away with it this year.

A snowy Saône

We've been walking as much as possible and driving to some local attractions and doing a little bit of shopping, sometimes for ourselves and sometimes for the boat.

I was persuaded to buy a warm hat for winter

We have visited Dijon several times and we have enjoyed some reasonably priced lunches at a small but very busy café. Dijon has some beautiful architecture, some of it quite surprising and not what you might expect.  

Dijon or Asia?

Towards the end of January, we were invited to a birthday party and spent a great lunchtime enjoying wonderful home cooked food in good company - thank you Uschi and Steve. 

Unfortunately, the same day, a local boat caught fire. 

No smoke...........

An elderly gentleman, living alone on his boat, was lucky to escape the inferno. The boat is gutted and most likely a total loss, but the local community, both residents and boaters, have been wonderful, finding him clothing, accommodation and generally helping him to put his life back together.

There's a lesson for us all here.

We entered one of the Wednesday cookery contests with our Broccoli and blue cheese soup. We didn't win but it was great fun.

Glen joined the Patchwork Group. Somewhat unexpectedly, she seems to be enjoying it and is taking great trouble to produce us a pair of cushion covers for our front step which doubles as a seat much of the time. However, this, she says, is probably a one off - 
Slo-Motion is unlikely to be festooned in patchwork, she hasn't got the patience.

Those of you who know, will remember that we planned to "pimp" our mismatching fridges. Having paid over the odds for a silver door on our new fridge before we left Upton, we were dismayed to find that it was totally different to our existing silver fridge. After lots of research Glen found that young guys wrap their small, old cars in vinyl to personalise them, it's called "pimping your ride".

We've had the black vinyl for some time, but have only just found the courage to attempt the job. BUT - with a scalpel, a hairdryer and lots of swearing, the transformation is complete.

Pimp away!

Half way!

We're also continuing our objective of everything on the boat serving a dual purpose - the clothes airer makes a great drying rack for our painting and varnishing jobs.

Airing cupboard (doors) ?

Helen, from Jubilant, has started a T'ai Chi class which we are attending twice a week. Although we find it difficult to memorise the movements, we do enjoy the exercise and the discipline and she's an excellent teacher.

We were invited to house sit for the month of February, in the South, near to our friends Les and Jude. We didn't need much persuading!!!!!!!

We spent the month in a wonderful, beautifully converted farmhouse with a big cook's kitchen and a huge log burner. Bliss.

It was great to catch up with old friends and to visit the coast and some of the towns we know from previous visits.

Grau du Roi

With Nick and Val

The weather was often cold from the North wind, the Mistral, which seemed to blow for most of the time, (we even had snow one day) but the blue skies certainly made a welcome change and we did enjoy some warm sunshine. 

A girl could catch her death here!

We enjoyed some friendly cook-ins at the farmhouse with friends old and new, Tapas just down the road and seafood on the coast.

Old and new friends together

Heaven or what?

Reunited

Seaside food

A very memorable meal was lunch with a friend who lives in a wonderful apartment high up in the rooftops of Nîmes. 

Great lunch in Nîmes, thank you Judy

The views from her terrace are breathtaking and the apartment is full of light.

This could be a film set

We always find Uzes a treat to wander around. 

Place Aux Herbes

But in the winter, with the strong shadows and absence of tourists, it's particularly enjoyable...

So very French...

Or what??



Then back to Saint Jean de Losne early March.

Last weekend was our anniversary and we decided to treat ourselves. We booked a night away in the Jura, which is very close to where we are but is an area we haven't explored.

We visited the Royal Salt Works:

This was a factory

Followed the River Loue to its source and stopped at several small towns along the way...

Ornans

It was warm and sunny on Friday and we did the old people thing and took our Tupperware to the riverside!

OK! I know! Give us a break.

Our overnight was at a Spa Hotel in Salines Les-Bains, where we swam in the brine pool and enjoyed a good meal in the restaurant.

Happy Anniversary Glen

Happy Anniversary Pete

Saturday was cool and grey but not raining, so we continued our touring and visited scenic waterfalls, lakes, dramatic gorges and acres of vines. We had a great time and really enjoyed ourselves. Just the thing to set us up for our preparations for the new season.

Box Canyon

Cascade de Hérisson

So we're varnishing and painting and generally getting ship shape and looking forward to beginning our waterborne adventures for this year. 

Watch this space….